Mt. Pinatubo Pottery, Greenhills, and Leaving the Philippines

Today, our last day in the Philippines, Mr. Man and I are heading to Greenhills looking for pottery made with ash from the 1991 Mt. Pinatubo eruption, which destroyed the homes, livelihood, and way of life of thousands of the Aeta tribe in Central Luzon.  It is made by the people of Mt. Pinatubo through the EVA (Entrepreneur Volunteer Assistance) Charity Foundation.  This pottery, along with other handcrafted products (all made at least in part with from Mt. Pinatubo itself – paper, ceramics and glazes of volcanic residue) are the sole source of financial support for the organization.  Bob and Mari gave us a sugar/creamer set for Hanukkah and I love it so much that I want to get some for gifts, but it seems it is only sold in a few places or through fundraising events, and we soon learn that it was only sold in Greenhills at Christmas.  We are bummed.

Greenhills is a flea-market-like mall with stall upon stall of designer wear (seconds, I think), fake designer handbags, and pearls, lots and lots of pearls.  White, pink, gray, black.  See a strand you like, but the length isn’t right?  No problem ma’am.  They will re-string them for you within a few minutes.  Rico helps with negotiating a fair price—I must admit I have become more comfortable asking for the “best price” and shaking my head or offering less if I’m not happy with the price quoted.  I look to Rico to see if I’ve gotten a good deal, conveyed by a slight nod or shake of the head.

Tonight Mari and Bob are throwing a party and we intend to stay up all night as we must leave for the airport at 3:00am.  We help set up the bar, and I give Rico some tips as he is serving as bartender, something he hasn’t done before.  There is plenty of good food (Susan’s lumpia being my favorite) and many interesting people to talk to; largely other ex-pats.  Even so, I feel my energy flagging around 11:00pm and decide to rest some before our flight.  I manage to dose some even though the sounds of the party float up to our room.  At some point a guest comes in and turns on the light to retrieve her purse, she quietly apologizes when she sees me curled up with Milo on the bed.  I drift off again when the door opens and the light is turned on.  I see a young Filipina girl standing at the door.  When she sees me, she says, “Oh, sorry” and then approaches the bed to pet Milo.  I am too tired to engage her and she takes the hint and leaves.  I get up and lock the door.

Soon it is time to leave and after saying our goodbyes and thanks to Mari, Bob drives us to the airport, which is already crowded at nearly 4:00am.  You must go through security before you enter the airport and the line is very long—there is only one scanner at each entrance. Thankfully we are flying business class, which affords us being escorted to the front of the line.  After checking in, we stand in a long line for immigration; here it doesn’t matter whether you are flying business or coach, there is a shorter line only for diplomats.  After about 30 minutes we are headed to another, somewhat shorter line to pay our exit fee, and then go through security again.  This time we must remove our shoes.  There is one line for ladies and one for men, it is unclear why as they are side by side.  We pop in the Sky Club to use the restrooms and sit for a few minutes before heading to the gate where we must go through security yet again.

Finally we are on the plane and headed for Nagoya where I am sure we will be forced to gather our things and depart the plane, go through security there, and wait to board the plane again.  Perhaps then I will sleep.

Back in Manila

Back in Manila with the traffic, exhaust, and chaotic driving, we spent today shopping at Tiendesita for gifts for family and friends.  Tiendesita’s is a large, covered outdoor market with individual booths selling everything; clothes, furniture, dogs, fruits and vegetables, baskets, I mean everything.  We wander from stall to stall looking for just the right things with Filipina’s calling “Yes ma’am” or “Sir, Ma’am” (pronounced mah’m—at first I thought they were saying “mom”) as we pass.  Mari helps with negotiating good prices; eventhough prices are already low by American standards, it is expected that you will haggle for a better deal.   

Lunch is at the huge outdoor food court.  This is unlike anything in the States; all kinds of fish and seafood, rice, and local specialties out on display.  We settle on grilled Tilapia and Bangus (Milk fish), a spicy seafood stew, fried calamari, yang chow (a yellow fried ice), and Laing (a green cooked with coconut milk).  Everything is delicious and we eat until we are full.  Only Bob and Mr. Man have room for Suman sa ibos (sweet rice in banana leaves). 

After lunch Mari has arranged for the two of us to have facials, and we walk to Shangri-La Mall for a manicure/pedicure before our treatments.  The nail spa is lovely; white couches with footrests and loungers, with lots of pillows.  The white uniformed attendants bring individual foot baths to you for a soak—they lift your feet into and out of the baths—and then lay your feet on white towels on the footrest.  Nail polish colors are presented to you from a tray and they are “happy” to try different colors for you.  While one attendant gives you a pedicure, another does your manicure, accompanied by a hand/arm and foot/leg massage.  Not once do we feel rushed; it quiet, calm and serene.  So unlike what I’m used to (where the attendants chat to each other in Vietnamese—don’t you sometimes get the impression they are talking about you?—and seem in a hurry to get you finished so they can get to the next customer).  All this takes about an hour-and-a-half and we are late for our facials.

At the spa facility I’m shown to a very small, cramped room at the back and asked to remove my top and don a robe.  My technician puts on latex gloves to apply the cleanser (I have never had a facial with gloves before, and must admit I didn’t like the feel of the gloves on my face) and a scrub.  Next is a diamond peel; a small suctioning instrument with an abrasive padding is drawn across your face which removes dead skin cells, after which a mask is applied to your face for 20-30 minutes.  During this I’m left alone in the dark room to relax; except there is no blanket and it is cold.  I’m happy when the time is up, the mask is removed, and it is time to leave with instructions not to wash my face for at least four hours.

We meet Mr. Man, Bob and the kids for sushi at Samu Sam’s, where a hot cup of tea is just the thing to warm us up.  Dinner is ended with a visit to Golden Spoon for frozen yogurt.

Leaving Palawan

It is our last day at El Nido and we have no plans other than relaxing on the beach and perhaps doing some snorkeling nearby.  It will be hard to leave this gorgeous place, yet I am ready to head home soon; I miss Amanda, and Marley & Stella, and our friends (and Mexican food!).  It is very overcast today, which makes it easier as well.  We must check-out at noon and leave the island at 3:00pm.  Unfortunately we can’t get a late check-out as some other lucky individual needs the room.

 
The staff comes to sing us off—"Leaving on a Jet Plane"—and gathers around to wave us off from the dock, continuing to wave and sing until the boat is out of sight. 

Heading back to the airport in the Jeepnee, I catch a couple shots of El Nido Town and the village through the open window.

Our air transport service to and from El Nido, Island Transvoyager Inc (ITI) is the first airline in the Philippines to offer a carbon offset to passengers. For a maximum of Ph200 ($4.40) we are able to offset the carbon dioxide emission produced by our round trip flight as well as support tree-planting activities to the Watershed Rehabilitation Project of the Municipality of El Nido. Mr. Man and I make a Ph1000 donation.  We are so impressed with the green initiatives of the island and feel this is little to ask in return for the beauty we experienced this past week.

To see more pictures, check out my Picasa Web Album
https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/LeavingPalawan?feat=directlink

Island Hopping in the Philippines

This morning we are both up before the sun, and move to the daybed on the balcony to lazily watch the sun come up.  We enjoy a late breakfast—I have fallen into a route of smoked fish, cheese, croissant, and fruit (usually dried apricots and prunes)—before we are off island hopping.

Our first stop is Vigan or "Snake" Island, so named for the curving sandbar that connects this tiny island to the mainland at low tide.  There is a short hike up to the high point where we discover a lovely view of the entire Bacuit Bay. 


View from top of Snake Island

On the boat we introduce ourselves to a Filipino family from Chicago and have an interesting morning getting to know them.  Both Renee and Susan were raised in the states, but still have family in the Philippines.  They are accompanied by their two adult daughters and son-in-law.  There is also a young Japanese couple who have happened to be on some of the same excursions as us.  They seem very happy; always smiling and taking photos while making funny faces.  They are so cute, and I enjoy watching them as they seem to be having such a great time.   Another family on the boat is from Mexico City who have been living in Shanghai for the past five years.  With them is their six year old daughter who is fluent in Spanish, English and Chinese.

Our second stop is Cudugnon Cave, where we crawl through a small opening in the limestone cliff into a large cave.  There are many sparrows here, but unlike their cliff dwelling cousins their nests are made of a mixture of saliva and grass—instead of pure saliva, which is so sought after for making bird’s nest soup—and so their nests are not hunted.  Chito tells us that there were human bones discovered here from people who hid in this cave during WWII; creepy.  We all take photos of each other and Chito even takes a group shot of the “Americans.”

 

Entrance/exit to the cave



 

The Americans

Next we are off to Pinasil, a hollowed out rock with a small cavern accessible by dingy or kayak—as we are in an outrigger, we can only pull up to the entrance for photos—but, today it is even to choppy for those.

We are back at Miniloc for lunch and a bit of relaxing and then at 3:30pm we are off for snorkeling at Pagugaban Island.  There is a strong current today and it is suggested that those of us who are not strong swimmers settle for snorkeling along the shoreline, which is where we head.  There are plenty of beautiful fish to watch, but the coral here is like a bone yard, broken pieces blanket the floor of the bay.  Even so we have a good time.

On the boat ride back to Miniloc we strike up a conversation with a young American couple, David and Lindsey, who are living in Beijing.  Later when our sunset cruise is cancelled we meet up with them at the bar and chat about what it is like living in China, the pollution, and communism.  They tell us that the pollution is so bad that they wear hepa masks wherever they go—David even shows us a picture of his filters after a week; picture a hardboilded egg cut in half,  but what would be the yolk are somwhat larger dark spots of pollution—and have recently bought a filter for their apartment. 

A large group arrived this afternoon for a class of 1961 Medical School Reunion. While we are talking with Lindsey and David, I notice that an older gentleman keeps looking at us.  Before long he approaches us and we soon learn he is Jewish—no matter where you are in the world Jews just seem to find each other—and is here with his wife who is part of the reunion.  He lives in San Diago, but spent 25 years in Durham and is surprised to find that we are from Atlanta, as he doesn’t think we have accents (this is the first time I have ever been told that).

We invited David and Lindsey to joy us for dinner and share a bottle of wine, and continue our talks of China and the United States.  They both express a desire to move back, but with the current economy they have to stay in China.  David is in the symphony and Lindsey is a music teacher at the British School.

To see more pictures, check out my Picasa Web Album

https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/IslandHopping?authkey=Gv1sRgCM2sidagipPluQE&feat=directlink

One of the Coolest Experiences of My Life

Those of you who know me may not believe this, but I swear it is true, I have risen early every day since we have been in the Philippines; most days before 6:00am.  This morning we are sitting on the balcony, the sun has risen and we are deciding on our activities over the next couple of days.  Mr. Man wants to relax—interpretation: sit on the beach and do nothing—and I want to snorkel, island hop, hike, snorkel some more… you get the picture.  We compromise by making sure there is plenty of relaxation time in-between activities.  I happen to look back toward the beach hoping to spot a small egret that has been fishing in the shallow water the last couple of mornings, when I see a couple of monkeys—yep, your read that right, monkeys—on the beach!  I rush to grab my camera and take a couple quick shots before heading out for a closer look.



This guy parked himself between me and the females/babies
and I thought, "No problem dude, message received."

After breakfast we snorkel at MIR and watch the Jack Fish being fed from underwater.  I bought a disposable underwater camera yesterday afternoon, but won’t be able to post those pictures until after having them developed—does anyone still develop film anymore?  There are plankton in the water this morning, which sting my arms (and even my ears) slightly.  We hang out at the beach and then at 1:00pm we take a boat over to Lagen (another El Nido Resort) for a late lunch and hike. 


Lagen Island Resort

Lagen is beautiful, shaded, tropical, and lush; it is much newer than Miniloc and has a pool, but little beach and the view is nowhere near as awe inspiring. The lunch buffet is the same: some sort of sushi, soup (today Hot and Sour), salad, build your own stir-fry, grill (hot dogs and hamburgers), rice, etc. After lunch we go on the nature hike that begins behind the resort, up, down, up again, then down, to the beach on the other side of this small island.


Banana Palm

Thankfully there is a rope railing the entire trail as some areas are pretty steep and the rope is useful for hoisting yourself up or steadying yourself when going down—did I mention that I am doing this in flip flops?— we have hopes of seeing some wildlife along the way.  The thing of most interest are the Ceiba Pentandra (sometimes called Silk Cotton Tree) trees.  The roots of these trees are huge and flat rather than round.



Ceiba Pentandra

I know this picture is horribly out-of-focus, but I wanted to
show the height of the roots of this tree

There is not much wildlife, although something runs down the mountain in front of us, a monitor lizard perhaps. This begins to seem like our only “near” sighting when I happen to look up and see a monkey in a tree over our heads. I’m equally excited about this “natural” sighting as I was at seeing the monkeys on the beach this morning, who were looking for food—one of the MIR staff members told us that sometimes the monkeys will jump on your table looking for a handout.

Long-tailed Macaque Monkey
(Lagen Nature Trail)

The trail ends at a private paradise…there is no one else there except a Filipino whose job it is to radio Lagen that we are ready to be picked up by boat and transported back to the resort. We take a quick dip to refresh ourselves. There are two turtle nests on this beach which are being monitored and are covered with chicken wire cages to keep the monitor lizards from digging up and eating the eggs.

From here to eternity...



We take a quick dip in the pool at Lagen Resort and enjoy a beer before being picked up and taken back to Miniloc.

To see more pictures, check out my Picasa Web Album
https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/OneOfTheCoolestMomentsOfMyLife?authkey=Gv1sRgCNLvhrPg7J6kfA&feat=directlink

Swimming with Jack Fish

It is 6am, and we are sitting on the balcony watching the sky change colors as the sun rises.  There is a delicious breeze that rustles through the straw of the thatched roof, which combined with the gentle lapping of waves and the piping of birds, creates an early morning symphony.  It is a wonderful start to the day.



Sunrise at Miniloc

After breakfast I went snorkeling at the reef in front of MIR.  They feed a school of Jack Fish here each day at 8:45am.  I am snorkeling along the rim of the reef when the first of these big fish (approximately 2’) swims passed me, followed closely by another, and another, and another; all heading for the feeding area.  They swim around me close enough to touch. I can only describe it as awesome.  Bob, Mari and the kids join me just before the feeding starts.   Once the feeding starts I back away a little so as not to be in the middle of the frenzy—they rush to get to the fish heads and pieces first, sometimes jumping slightly out of the water. 


Male Jack Fish



Yesterday when Zoe swam with the Jacks, she got out of the water with this incredible smile on her face and was literally speechless for a few minutes, only nodding her head and grinning ear-to-ear when asked if she liked it.  Bob's face had the same expression when he got out of the water this morning.

Bob after swimming with Jack Fish

Bob, Mari and the kids are leaving today—Mr. Man and I have extended our stay until Wednesday afternoon—so we just enjoy hanging out on the beach with them.

To see more pictures, view my Picasa Web Album

https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/SwimmingWithJackFish?authkey=Gv1sRgCMbpg9nA9qPkGA&feat=directlink

Surely This Must Be Heaven

We rose early this morning and spent time on the balcony before joining the fray of vacationers.  The Stephenses went scuba diving and we were hanging out with Zoe on the beach in front of Miniloc Island Resort (MIR), when Zoe shouts “lizard!”  We turn to see a water monitor lizard about 3’ long head-to-tail (they can get as big as 8’).  I quickly grabbed my camera and ran down the beach to get a couple of shots of him.


Water Monitor Lizard

 Mr. Man took Zoe kayaking in front of the resort and then we just lazed about the beach.  Later, we will head over to Entalula for a picnic lunch and some alone time.


Zoe and David kayaking

Later…

A warm breeze dances over my skin as I sleepily sway back and forth in a straw hammock.  We have finished our lunch of smoked tuna, salad, and grilled pork, squid, and shrimp (apparently, Filipinos do not believe in vegetables), as well as fruit for desert, and are now napping in the shade—to be honest, Mr. Man is lying on a lounger in the sun, but I am more concerned with the long-term effects of the sun on my skin.

Picnic lunch at Entalula

The water here is achingly beautiful; clean, crystal clear, turquoise in the shallows meeting the sapphire blue of deeper waters... surely this must be heaven. 
 

At 2:00pm we are back on the boat and headed for “small lagoon” for kayaking and snorkeling.  Once we are in the water Mr. Man informs me that this is his first time kayaking—this is soon apparent and I think to myself “he is going to capsize us.”  We don’t take our camera, so no pictures; we enter the small lagoon through a narrow opening in the cliff wall; it is quiet and we take a moment to just soak it in.  The water is turquoise green and clear, and we are surrounded by shear limestone cliffs where vegetation grows from crevices in the limestone.

On our way back to the boat to retrieve our snorkeling gear, I ask Mr. Man to try and keep his body centered in the boat as I can feel him leaning… can you see where I’m going with this? We almost make it back to the boat when I feel us begin to tip, I try to correct us by leaning in the opposite direction, but to no avail, we are over—thank God I left the camera in the boat!

The snorkeling is good; MIR even had a magnification mask for Mr. Man.  We saw several species of fish—parrot fish and clown fish nestled in the waving anemone—and coral, large blue starfish and long-spine sea urchins.

From here we went on a quick tour of “big lagoon” and spotted a White-Breasted Sea Eagle on our way back to the resort.


Entering Big Lagoon

Big Lagoon

200,000,000 year old limestone

Exiting Big Lagoon

 
To view more pictures go to my Picasa Web Album

https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/Entalula?authkey=Gv1sRgCMeYx_y1yq-gZA&feat=directlink

Palawan: A Study in Beauty, Relaxation* and Preservation

Four-thirty in the morning comes very, very early.  We are off to El Nido on the island of Palawan and have an early morning flight, and have to leave the house by 5:30am.  When we get to the hanger, Zoe and I go immediately to check out the plane; there is a technician turning the propeller and I joke with Zoe that he is winding up the rubberband (remember those rubberband airplanes from when we were kids?).

Our plane to El Nido

It is a 75 minute flight to El Nido.  We land on a hard dirt runway and are greeted by singing when we step off the plane.  After a brief introduction to Palawan, we are loaded into a Jeepnee and head to the port—via El Nido Town. 


Welcoming Committee

El Nido Airport

El Nido Town

El Nido Town (love the chicken crossing
the road in the background)

We take a large outrigger to El Nido and again are greeted by singing at the dock of Miniloc Island Resort, and are treated to a wonderful fruit drink.


Miniloc Island Resort

MIR Welcome Committee



It is incredibly beautiful here; we have a cottage on stilts over the water with a small balcony equipped with daybed.  The view is to die for.


Our home for the next three days



Ecology is very important to Palawan; they ask that you leave nothing other than your foot prints and take nothing (no coral or shells) other than pictures and memories, which we are happy to oblige. Ecology awareness is at a high.  To protect the megadiversity of this beautiful island, only eco-friendly programs are allowed by tourist establishments.  Serious efforts are undertaken to preserve this last ecological frontier, with more protected areas than any other province in the Philipines.  The entire province was declared a Fish and Wildlife Sanctuary in 1967. At El Nido, their motto is G.R.E.E.N. Guard, Respect, Educate, El Nido.  Each guest is given an eco-bag, and are asked to place in it anything they find on their excursions that isn't biodegradable. 
 
On the boat ride over our Activities Coordinator, Grace told us about the various activities of the resort, but today is all about relaxing, and we lay on loungers under cabanas. We have scheduled spa treatments for later in the day.

Later...
(*warning: this post contains descriptions of embarrassing self-indulgence)

My spa treatment begins with a Balinese Foot Bath.  Sitting on the balcony, my feet are submerged in warm water in a large wooden bowl to which is added rose oil and rose pedals that are rubbed over the legs and feet, followed by a wash with rose soap and rinsed. Following this is a salt scrub. The only time I have felt more decadent was when I had a body polish in Napa.

Next I lay face-down on a mylar sheet and am slathered with water lily gel, I roll-over, which is tricky with the sticky gel on my backside, and am slathered again, before being wrapped in the mylar and covered with a large, thick towel. Almost immediately your body heat creates a warm cocoon. After 15 minutes, I’m requested to shower before my aromatherapy massage, which is just the right pressure, and I am soon in a semi-conscious state.

At the end of the massage is a honey-cucumber facial which is lovely; until the end when they place thinly-sliced, ice-cold cucumber slices over your entire face and neck, including your eyes. I thought my eyeballs would freeze they were so cold—not that I am complaining, this was without a doubt two-and-a-half hours of pure indulgence.

To view more pictures, visit my Picasa Web Album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Kelly.Enzor/ElNido?feat=directlink